tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5744669578441538342024-03-13T23:38:24.727-07:00Hungry Planet: Living in a Crowded Worldarticles, essays, and tools for suitable living in a world of less resourcesDon Woodringhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13208016718193525529noreply@blogger.comBlogger5125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-574466957844153834.post-33671820111495101032009-12-26T18:30:00.000-08:002013-11-11T21:53:34.182-08:00Pennsylvania Electricity Deregulation – Weathering the Storm Part 2: Shopping for an Electricity ProviderMany of us are geared up for gift shopping as we rush through the holiday season and sprint to the end of the year. This year, however, the 2010 shopping spree gets a little more complicated. We need to add shopping for an electricity provider to our list.<br />
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The uncertainty and finding time to do that can be stressful, but times are changing, and a savvy approach to energy use can amount to big savings to the household budget. And quite frankly, picking an energy supplier is no more difficult than shopping online for a tie for great uncle Fred, unless he has already been scratched off the list in these penny-pinching days.<br />
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In my last column, Pennsylvania Electricity Deregulation – Weathering the Storm Part 1: How It Got Here and How it Works,” I focused on how the electricity gets to your home or business, and how deregulation, and the end of a decade of rate caps would change the way we all use electricity.<br />
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In Part 2, we’ll look at why starting January 1, 2010, PPL’s customers will see a 30 percent increase in their energy bills (Allegheny customers face the change in 2011), and then we’ll look at how to shop for a supplier that meets your needs.<br />
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<strong><span style="color: #38761d; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">WHY RATES GO UP IN 2010</span></strong><br />
Theoretically, deregulation creates a competitive marketplace where companies compete for your business. In turn, prices for the product or service are kept low by that very competition. That is what the PUC (Public Utility Commission) and state government set out to do when they deregulated electricity in 1996. The goal was to break up the monopoly of a few utilities, and give more suppliers access to Pennsylvania customers with the end result of affordable electricity. So why the PPL increase?<br />
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PPL (PPL Electric Utilities) does not produce power. It buys its supply through competitive bids on the open market. For the past three years, PPL has been buying energy as they are obligated to by the state and sell it to you and without making a profit.<br />
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When PPL was buying power for 2010, the energy costs were higher at the time. In fact, the rate increase would have been much higher than 30 percent had not some of the later auctions been cheaper than the earlier ones.<br />
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Some of the suppliers that now can enter Pennsylvania bought their supply when prices were down and thus can offer a discount to PPL’s rate. What happens after 2010 is anyone’s guess, but that is what occurs in a deregulated market; you will have to be a more involved consumer to stay on top of the price changes.<br />
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<strong><span style="color: #38761d; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">SHOPPING FOR ELECTRICITY</span></strong><br />
If for whatever reason you do not a sign up with another supplier, you will then stay with your current provider, like PPL or Allegheny. If you decide to shop around then where do you start?<br />
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In the past few weeks, as a residential PPL electric customer, you should have received a letter that included a list of suppliers. Most PPL customers also have been receiving information from PPL and other licensed providers about electricity purchasing opportunities.<br />
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First, if you need to better understand the system and deregulation, then visit my blog at <a href="http://hungryplanet-living.blogspot.com/">http://hungryplanet-living.blogspot.com/</a>. You can find Part 1 of this series and other links.<br />
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If you missed the mailed information or tossed it in the trash, then start with the online factsheet <a href="http://www.abe.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/h/H85.pdf">http://www.abe.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/h/H85.pdf</a> by my colleague Dennis Buffington at the College of Ag Sciences. The factsheet offers shopping tips for residential, business and commercial customers. Worksheets to record the suppliers’ responses can be downloaded at the Cooperative Extension site, <a href="http://energy.cas.psu.edu/">http://energy.cas.psu.edu/</a>.<br />
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After arming yourself with the needed information and the worksheets, you need to visit PUC’s “Utility Choice” site, <a href="http://www.puc.state.pa.us/utilitychoice">http://www.puc.state.pa.us/utilitychoice</a>. I feel the “Utility Choice” site is one of the best organized state sites I have ever used. By going to the electric part of the site and clicking the supplier’s button, you will see a list of EDCs (distribution companies, utilities) that serve Pennsylvania customers. Click on your current utility, in this case PPL or Allegheny, and you will get a list of the licensed suppliers in the state. As of this writing, there are six suppliers for PPL residential and many more for the business customers. Allegheny Power Region has none at the moment for residential, but that will change next year as their own rate caps come off.<br />
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I know of two suppliers, Direct Energy and Dominion Energy Solutions, which have mailed out marketing pieces to PPL customers. Both offer a discount to the upcoming of PPL rate. The terms vary between the two companies. I have talked to Dominion’s corporate communications person and two of its customer service people, and I found them clear and precise on the plans they offer.<br />
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Generally the process is fairly simple. You can call or go online. Some plans have one year or longer contracts. Some have no contracts for 2010; you just sign up. Some plans let you leave early without paying penalties; others you pay a penalty. Some have one rate for the entire year; others have a lower rate for the first three months and then a slightly higher rate for the rest of the year.<br />
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Some plans are still in limbo while they wait for PUC approval. There are also plans for those interested in purchasing energy produced by an alternative source like wind energy.<br />
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Do your homework and ask questions about the rates, and if any contracts and penalties apply. It may seem confusing and time consuming, but it’s not once you dive in.<br />
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One important factor you need to remember is that whatever happens, you will always have a reliable source for electricity. By law, if your chosen supplier fails to provide you with electricity, then your “default supplier,” which for many is PPL, will provide you with power at its prevailing price.<br />
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You really have nothing to lose by making the effort, and the education and savings you’ll get are worth it. So get out there and start shopping.<br />
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Have a great holiday and an energy efficient New Year, and put great uncle Fred back on the list.<br />
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The next column in the series will be “Act 129 – The Brave New World of Electricity Distribution.”Don Woodringhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13208016718193525529noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-574466957844153834.post-31264612799493658682009-11-03T13:47:00.000-08:002013-11-04T23:10:44.792-08:00Pennsylvania Electricity Deregulation – Weathering the Storm Part 1<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SvC_g0jO0LI/AAAAAAAAAEo/bi-DCjk-Zdg/s1600-h/carbon-footprint-2.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400026523800359090" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SvC_g0jO0LI/AAAAAAAAAEo/bi-DCjk-Zdg/s200/carbon-footprint-2.jpg" style="cursor: hand; float: right; height: 150px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 200px;" /></a><br />
<span style="color: #666666;">In 1996, the Pennsylvania General Assembly approved the deregulation of electricity generation. When that event happened, it set the course of how you would use electricity and its cost. For PPL customers, deregulation begins January 1, 2010, and for Allegheny Power customers, it is January 1, 2011. But what does that mean for you? It probably means, according to most PPL officials, a 30 percent increase in their residential customers’ electric bills. Whoa…<br /><br />PPL has an insert with its November bill that is offering a deferral option of spreading out the higher electricity costs.<br /><br />“You defer some of the charges you would otherwise pay in 2010 and pay them back later, plus interest, on top of your full bill,” states the insert. That’s fine, but my question is do you really want to go down that road?<br /><br />How can you brace for this approaching storm to your household budget? My upcoming series of articles will help guide you to the day of reckoning, but before we move forward we need a little history and background on deregulation.<br /><br />Implemented by the Pennsylvania Public Utility Commission (PUC), electricity rate caps (price controls) were to stabilize prices during the upheaval leading to the complete deregulation of electricity generation. Except for the PUC-granted, minimal annual increases, electricity prices have changed little since 1996, as compared to, and this is important, other energy sources. Additionally, if you look at your bill, you will see monthly tangible and intangible transition fees, or stranded invest¬ment fees. Those have been used to compensate the utilities as they moved toward and into deregulation.<br /><br />The primary reason to remove the rate caps was to open the electric industry to competition, thereby enabling PA residents, institutions, businesses, and industries to shop around and buy electricity at lower costs. Originally, the deregulation was to be completed statewide by January 1, 2001 with rural electric cooperatives and municipal-operated utility companies exempt from the legislation. That date was well-missed, which leaves us with the final drop dead dates on the horizon.<br /><br />Theoretically, you could choose a supplier since 1996, when rates were capped. But in reality, other suppliers couldn’t compete with the big utilities’ artificially low rates, so they stayed out of the market. Now, with the rate caps coming off, companies that can beat the price of the current suppliers can begin making offers to PPL’s and other utilities’ customers.<br /><br />To understand the deregulation of electricity generation, you need to know some of the following:</span><strong style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms';"><span style="color: #000066;"><br /></span></strong><br />
<strong style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms';"><span style="color: #38761d;">THE THREE PARTS OF PROVIDING ELECTRICITY TO YOU, THE CUSTOMER</span></strong><br />
<span style="color: #666666;"><strong>1. Generation</strong> is the production of electricity at a power plant.<br /><br /><strong>2. Transmission</strong> is movement of high voltage electricity from the generation plant to the point of distribution (substations).<br /><br /><strong>3. Distribution</strong> is the local part of the delivery system of electricity from the transmission lines, and it includes substations that transform high voltages to lower levels for delivery to your home or business. Distribution also includes the maintenance of the electricity lines, restoration of electricity after storms and accidents, and customer billing and financial assistance to low-income customers. Such services will continue to be provided by your electric distribution com¬pany and regulated by the PUC.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #38761d; font-family: trebuchet ms;"><strong>YOU COULD INTERACT WITH TWO PLAYERS</strong></span><br />
<span style="color: #666666;"><strong>1. Electric Distribution Company (EDC)</strong> is the company that owns, operates, and maintains the power lines and equipment to deliver electricity from the transmission lines to the customers. EDCs are regional public utilities like PPL and Allegheny Power. ECDs are responsible for customer services. It is where your bill comes from.<br /><br /><strong>2. Electric Generation Supplier (EGS)</strong> is a PUC licensed person, corporation, generator, broker or marketer that sells electricity to customers by using the transmission or distribution facilities of an electric distribution company (EDC).<br /></span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;"><strong><span style="color: #38761d;">WHAT CHANGES WITH DEREGULATION?</span></strong></span><br />
<span style="color: #666666;">The generation of electricity will be open to competition. Most importantly, you, the consumer, can shop for an electricity supplier, because electricity becomes a commodity that can be purchased from any licensed supplier or broker (EGS).</span><br /><br /><span style="color: #666666;">Nevertheless, according to PPL spokesman George Lewis, your current public utility is the “default supplier.”</span><br /><br /><span style="color: #666666;">“The public utility is required to provide electric supply for any customer that doesn’t have his own supplier,” said Lewis.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: #666666;">In other words, if you are a PPL customer and you don’t choose a supplier, then you will stay with PPL.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: #666666;">When you select a licensed electricity supplier, just where will your electricity come from after deregulation is completed? It will come from the PJM just as it always has.</span><br /><span style="color: #666666;">Great, one more three-letter initialism. EDC, EGS, PUC, PPL and now PJM. Bear with me; it will come together.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: #666666;">PJM stands for the Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Maryland Interconnection LLC, also known as the Mid-Atlantic power pool. It is a large independent system operator that manages the regional transmission system for 13 states in the Northeast and Midwest, including most of Pennsylvania. PJM is our grid.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: #666666;">Your selected supplier will provide electricity to the grid that you use. If your supplier cannot deliver the necessary amount of electricity to the grid, then your EDC will provide the electricity to the grid, at its price.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: #666666;">Keep in mind; you cannot be penalized by your EDC for selecting another supplier, and there will not be any retaliatory brownouts. Again, even if your supplier fails to deliver, your EDC, because of its default supplier status, will provide you with power. So you’ll have that safety net of service.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: #666666;">There will be changes to rate tariffs. Current rate features you see on your bill probably will be gone for gener¬ated electricity (energy and capacity), but they may be retained for the distribution charges. Other possible changes or opportunities are on-peak and off-peak rates.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: #666666;">It is my opinion that we have only two options. One, start shopping, and make this marketplace work. Two, we have to learn to conserve and be more efficient in our use of the juice.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: #666666;">For more information on deregulation see Dennis Buffington’s “Deregulation of Electricity Generation in Pennsylvania – 2009 Update Part 1. The Legislation and the Implementation” at </span><span style="color: #6fa8dc;"><a href="http://www.abe.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/h/energyindex.htm">www.abe.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/h/energyindex.htm</a>.</span> <span style="color: #666666;">Also check the educational inserts enclosed with your utility bill, and visit your utility’s website. </span><br />
<span style="color: #666666;"><br /></span><em><span style="color: #000066;">Next time in Part II, we will cover “Shopping for an Electricity Supplier,” and we will answer the question, “If deregulation creates competition, then why will my<br />electricity bill jump 30% or more?” Stay Tuned.</span></em>Don Woodringhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13208016718193525529noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-574466957844153834.post-53064952075529399872009-05-06T09:51:00.000-07:002020-01-02T21:53:57.382-08:00When High-Def Pigs Fly and a Reality Check for Captain Kirk<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/StYC-c064FI/AAAAAAAAADk/-LhOBSux6jU/s1600-h/FlyingTV+j.jpg"><span style="font-size: 0;"></span><span style="font-size: 0;"></span><span style="font-size: 0;"></span><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392500875736047698" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/StYC-c064FI/AAAAAAAAADk/-LhOBSux6jU/s200/FlyingTV+j.jpg" style="float: right; height: 112px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 200px;" /></a><span style="color: #666666; font-family: "georgia";">Usually seen flying off the shelves for football season, the high definition or HDTVs are rapidly replacing the cathode-ray tube TV that we all grew up with and loved.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia";"><span style="color: #666666;"><br />Within the past few years, television technology transformed our comic book pixilated view of the world into something as sharp and clear as peering at galaxies from the bridge of the Starship Enterprise. Those dazzling celestial bodies appear like you could reach out to touch them, but there’s a catch.<br /><br />As an agent for energy efficiency, I bring you bad news. You’re really going to pay for that crystal-clear view, and it’s going to be through your electric bill.<br /><br />The two high definition technologies, LCD and plasma TVs, are energy hogs with plasma in particular pushing out other energy piggies from the power trough. If you bring a plasma TV into your home, it will gobble up most or all your energy savings for the year that you gained by using compact fluorescent light bulbs. It is also equivalent to running a second refrigerator. "Ouch," or should I say, “Oink,"<br /><br />According to the Electric Power Research Institute, LCDs TVs use 75 percent more power - and plasma TVs a whopping three times more - than the traditional cathode-ray tube sets. The amount of power used varies depending on screen size and picture settings, how much you pay per kilowatt per hour, and time spent watching TV. A plasma set could add from $40 to $100 or more a year to the average household electric bill, while a LCD set’s yearly energy premium could be $15 to $25.<br /><br />Maybe that extra power cost is not a big deal for some of you at the moment, but remember, that Pennsylvania's utilities rate caps are coming off soon, and every little bit you can save now on electrical usage is going to help your future household bottom line.<br /><br />With more and more high definition programming coming into our homes, energy consumption is probably the last reason for someone’s choice of purchasing a new TV. Nevertheless, how do you get the best deal that has picture quality, price, and energy savings?<br /><br />Look for the Energy Star label to guide your purchase. In November 2008, additional specifications were created for HDTVs to meet. A TV has to meet stringent requirements on energy consumption, but within its own category to receive the label. In other words, it has to be an apple to apple comparison. A plasma or a LCD TV still could have an energy star label, but keep in mind, both respectively consume more energy than a cathode-ray tube TV. The Energy Star website, </span><span style="color: #666666;"><a href="http://www.energystar.gov/">http://www.energystar.gov/</a></span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia";"><span style="color: #666666;">, indentifies current make and models that have their label.<br /><br />Try </span><span style="color: #666666;"><a href="http://www.practical-home-theater-guide.com/">http://www.practical-home-theater-guide.com/</a></span></span><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: "georgia";"> to help you navigate the through the world of LCD and plasma TVs. The site compares the different technologies, picture quality, and advantages and disadvantages of them.<br /><br />An online affiliate of CBS, CNET, offers a great deal of information on their television review site at<span style="color: #3333ff;"> <a href="http://reviews.cnet.com/television/?tag=hdr;snav">http://reviews.cnet.com/television/?tag=hdr;snav</a>.</span></span></span><span style="color: #666666; font-family: "georgia";"> It reviews 150 TV models’ energy consumption and also sheds light on microdisplay rear projection models and the ancillary devices such as DVR, gaming devices, etc. There is a page on how to reduce TV energy usage.</span><br />
<span style="color: #666666; font-family: "georgia";"><br />Later this year, the new energy ratings become compulsory. Companies are pushing hard to get their models in line for the Energy Star label, and energy savings could head toward fifty percent based on previous models. If you are going to buy one, then do your homework.</span><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-family: "georgia";">Energy efficiency is more than governmental programs and regulations. It’s about personal habits and attitudes.<br /><br />Without getting too preachy, here’s a little tip to reduce your TV energy usage. WATCH LESS TV.<br /><br />If it’s a reality show you want, then try going out on a clear summer night and do a little stargazing. You might see a streaking meteor silently lacerate the heavens or an orbiting satellite mock gravity while peeking back at you. You could ponder. You could ponder anything - life, death, God, science, why a puppy’s breath smells like scorched oatmeal - anything. In turn, you will reduce your utility bill, and very possibly energize yourself.</span><em><span style="color: #000066; font-family: "georgia";"><br /></span></em></span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666;"><em><span style="color: #000066; font-family: "georgia";">“Earth is even more beautiful than it is from the bridge, Spock.” Kirk said into his communicator while looking upward. “The smells... The sounds… And this night sky is incredible. You should see the Milky Way from here.”<br /><br />“Of course, Captain. Would you like to return back to the ship?”<br /><br />“I hate to but I suppose so.”<br /><br />“Captain,” a Celtic-accented voice blurted from Kirk’s communicator. “I made some adjustments to the transporter. I can bring you back on half power.”<br /><br />“Half power? Can we do that all the time?”<br /><br />“I think so, Captain.”<br /><br />“Good. Now, Scotty, beam me up.”</span></em></span></div>
Don Woodringhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13208016718193525529noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-574466957844153834.post-39647941703008892742008-08-12T19:32:00.000-07:002009-10-25T20:59:18.696-07:00Energy Star and Energy Guide Labels – Helping the Consumer Save Money<span style="color:#666666;"><span style="font-family:georgia;">Plan on</span> purchasing a new appliance or TV? Maybe you need to replace old windows or a furnace before the coming winter? <span style="font-family:georgia;">Now</span><span style="font-family:georgia;"> is the time to consider Energy Star qualified products to save energy, money, and add comfort to your home.<br /></span><span style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span>Today’s column will look at the Energy Star program and the yellow EnergyGuide label that can be found on appliances. They are not one and the same, and they serve different purposes. Nevertheless, they both are important tools in making decisions on energy efficiency.<br /><br /></span><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><strong><span style="color:#003333;"><span style="color:#000066;"><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Energy Star</span> </span></span></span></strong></span><span style="color:#666666;"><span style="color:#333399;"><br /></span>The Energy Star program was created in 1992 by the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) in an attempt to reduce energy consumption and greenhouse gas emissions by power plants. Initiated as a voluntary labeling program designed to identify and promote energy efficient products, Energy Star’s first effort began with computer products. In 1996, EPA partnered with the US Department of Energy (DOE) for particular product categories.<br /><br />Currently, more than 40,000 products sport the blue Energy Star logo and are available in a wide range of items including major appliances, office equipment, lighting, home electronics, and more. Also, Energy Star standards are available for residential heating and cooling systems, new homes, and commercial and industrial buildings.<br /><br />Specifications set by the EPA and the DOE differ with each product. To receive the blue Energy Star logo, a product‘s energy efficiency is compared to standard models currently on the market. Keep in mind, when current products are compared to older products, like the ones that have been setting in your home for the last ten years, the savings can be much, much more:<br /><br /><strong><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;color:#000066;">Appliances</span></strong> - Average refrigerators need 15% savings over the minimum standard. Dishwashers need at least 41% savings.<br /><br /><strong><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;color:#000066;">Home Electronics</span></strong> - Energy Star televisions use 30% less energy than average. In November 2008, television specifications were improved to limit standby power use. In addition, a wider range of Energy Star televisions are now available. Other Energy Star home electronics include cordless phones, battery chargers, DVD players and VCR/DVD/TV combos, and external power adapters, most of which use 90% less energy than previous models.<br /><br /><strong><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;color:#000066;">Lighting</span></strong> - Energy Star fluorescent lighting uses 75% less energy and lasts up to ten times longer than normal incandescent lights.<br /><br /><strong><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;color:#000066;">Heating and Cooling Systems</span> </strong>- Energy Star heat pumps, boilers, air conditioning systems, and furnaces are available. In addition, cooling and heating bills can be significantly lowered with ENERGY STAR air sealing and duct sealing. Air sealing reduces the outdoor air that penetrates a building, and duct sealing prevents attic or basement air from entering ducts and lessening the heating/cooling system’s efficiency.<br /><br /><strong><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;color:#000066;">Home Office</span> </strong>- A new Energy Star specification for desktop computers went into effect in 2007. The requirements are more stringent than the previous specifications. Existing equipment designs can no longer use the logo unless re-qualified. The power requirements are for 80% or greater AC power supply efficiency.<br /><br /><strong><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;color:#000066;">Water Heaters</span></strong> - The bad news on present water heating is that it is the only major residential energy end use that does not have an Energy Star label. The good news is a program will debut in January 2009.<br />Overseen by the DOE, the water heater program will have even stronger standards phased in September 2010. Buying an Energy Star-labeled water heater in Phase 1 will save the average consumer between $26 and $277 a year, depending on the type of water heater.<br />There is a catch, the new standards will apply not to electric resistance water heaters, but only to solar water heaters, advanced drop-in integrated heat pump water heaters, and three gas-fired designs: high-performance storage tank, condensing, and whole-home tankless water heaters.<br />DOE determined that while there may be slight initial savings to be attained, there are few, if any, improvements possible for long-term qualification of electric resistance water heaters in the program. That’s an “OUCH,” for all of us who use electric elements to heat our water.<br /><br /></span><span style="color:#666666;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><strong><span style="font-size:130%;color:#000066;">EnergyGuide Label</span><br /></strong></span>As mentioned earlier, most appliances as well as heating and cooling systems have the yellow EnergyGuide label. Created and monitored by the Federal Trade Commission, the label often shows if an appliance is Energy Star qualified, but having a yellow EnergyGuide Label does not necessarily mean the product is an Energy Star one.<br /><br />Manufacturers must use standard test procedures to prove the energy use and efficiency of their products. Test results are printed on the EnergyGuide label. The label estimates how much energy the appliance uses, compares energy use of similar products, and lists approximate annual operating costs. Your exact costs will depend on local utility rates and the type and source of your energy.<br /><br />A new streamlined label was created in 2007, and the following anatomy is based on the new version.<br /><br /></span><span style="color:#000066;"><span style="font-size:180%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><strong><span style="font-size:100%;">The Anatomy of an EnergyGuide Label</span> </strong></span><br /></span><br /></span><span style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><strong><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;color:#000066;">Top</span><span style="color:#000099;"> </strong></span></span><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoMoSAwia7I/AAAAAAAAADM/mS0u8qicuZU/s1600-h/EnergyGuide2008.jpg"><span style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;color:#000099;"><strong><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5369179470662101938" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 246px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 285px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoMoSAwia7I/AAAAAAAAADM/mS0u8qicuZU/s320/EnergyGuide2008.jpg" border="0" /></strong></span></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoLdA82WVxI/AAAAAAAAAC8/Gvo4gkUywvw/s1600-h/energylabel.jpg"></a><span style="color:#666666;"><span style="color:#000099;"><br /></span>At the top of the EnergyGuide label, you'll find the manufacturer name, model number, type of appliance, and capacity.<br />Also shown are key features of the appliance that are shared with similar models that make up the cost range in the middle section. </span><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoLbpDHvjdI/AAAAAAAAACs/ZUEwUsrvXh4/s1600-h/energylabel.jpg"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoLbpDHvjdI/AAAAAAAAACs/ZUEwUsrvXh4/s1600-h/energylabel.jpg"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoLbpDHvjdI/AAAAAAAAACs/ZUEwUsrvXh4/s1600-h/energylabel.jpg"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoLbpDHvjdI/AAAAAAAAACs/ZUEwUsrvXh4/s1600-h/energylabel.jpg"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoLbpDHvjdI/AAAAAAAAACs/ZUEwUsrvXh4/s1600-h/energylabel.jpg"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoLbpDHvjdI/AAAAAAAAACs/ZUEwUsrvXh4/s1600-h/energylabel.jpg"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoLbpDHvjdI/AAAAAAAAACs/ZUEwUsrvXh4/s1600-h/energylabel.jpg"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoLbpDHvjdI/AAAAAAAAACs/ZUEwUsrvXh4/s1600-h/energylabel.jpg"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoLbpDHvjdI/AAAAAAAAACs/ZUEwUsrvXh4/s1600-h/energylabel.jpg"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoLbpDHvjdI/AAAAAAAAACs/ZUEwUsrvXh4/s1600-h/energylabel.jpg"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoLbpDHvjdI/AAAAAAAAACs/ZUEwUsrvXh4/s1600-h/energylabel.jpg"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoLbpDHvjdI/AAAAAAAAACs/ZUEwUsrvXh4/s1600-h/energylabel.jpg"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoLbpDHvjdI/AAAAAAAAACs/ZUEwUsrvXh4/s1600-h/energylabel.jpg"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Uu3yeIcuktc/SoLbpDHvjdI/AAAAAAAAACs/ZUEwUsrvXh4/s1600-h/energylabel.jpg"></a><br /><br /><span style="color:#666666;"><strong><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style="color:#000066;"><span style="font-size:130%;">Middle</span> </span><br /></span></strong>In the middle, a cost range helps you compare the energy use of the appliance with different models with similar features.<br />An estimate of operating costs shows what you might pay to run the appliance for a year. This estimate is based on the appliance’s electric use and a recent national average of energy prices. The cost appears on labels for all models and brands, so you can compare energy use just like you would price or other features.<br /><br /></span><span style="color:#666666;"><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style="color:#000066;"><strong>Bottom</strong><br /></span></span></span>The bottom of the label, shows how much electricity is used yearly based on typical use. Multiply this number by your local rate on your utility bill to get a better idea of actual operating cost.<br />An Energy Star logo may also be on the label showing the appliance uses less energy than the standard models.<br /><br /><span style="color:#000099;"><span style="font-size:130%;"><strong><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;color:#000066;">Exemptions</span></strong> </span><br /></span>Some appliances, such as clothes dryers, kitchen ranges and microwave ovens are exempt from EnergyGuide labeling since there is little difference in energy use between models.<br /><br /></span><span style="color:#666666;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><strong><span style="font-size:130%;color:#000066;">Some Words of Caution on the EnergyGuide Label</span></strong><br /></span>Make sure your comparing appliances of the same size. For example, you should compare the energy use in kilowatt-hours of all 18.4 cubic feet refrigerators. Just don’t rely on where a model fits on the comparison scale.<br /><br />Furthermore, the ranges shown on the labels are not updated frequently, and manufacturers are constantly introducing more efficient models. As a result, it could be possible to find a model that is more efficient than the most efficient end of the range. In that case, the label may note that the efficiency of this particular model was not available at the time the range was published.<br />Information on EnergyGuide labels varies from appliance to appliance. For example, the estimated cost may be based on the average price of natural gas instead of electricity. For room air conditioners, central air conditioners, heat pumps, furnaces and boilers, the range is not energy consumption, but rather, the energy efficiency ratings (EER, SEER, HSPF & SEER, and AFUE , respectively).<br /><br />Knowing the energy saving guidelines of Energy Star and understanding the purpose of the EnergyGuide label can help you make the ideal decision when shopping for an appliance or other energy products. In today’s energy-crunched world, knowledge and a little homework can amount to future, long-term, big savings on your energy bill.</span>Don Woodringhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13208016718193525529noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-574466957844153834.post-3861651909073108572008-03-10T11:08:00.000-07:002009-12-07T13:06:48.365-08:00CFL’s a Bright Idea to Cutting Your Home Energy CostsAbout year ago, I was standing in the aisle of a retail store trying to decide what would have been my second purchase of some Compact Fluorescent Light bulbs (CFLs) when a man and woman showed up and began to investigate the assortment of bulbs. Together, the couple held a package that contained one spiral-type light. Their heads nearly touched as they inspected the package turning it over and over, reading the label, and quieting commenting to each other on the bulb’s odd design. It was an intimate moment that looked more like they were purchasing an engagement ring than a light bulb. Obviously, it was the couple’s first venture into the realm of CFLs.<br /><br />The man turned to me and ask if knew anything about the lights. I told him a little, and that I had been trying them out for about a month and now was buying more to replace some incandescent ones as a way to cut my electric bill. The woman nodded to affirm their like reason for being in the aisle. I related my experience with CFLs and what I felt were the pros and cons.<br /><br />They bought two lights bulbs. As they began to walk away, I told them good luck.<br /><br />The man turned and replied, “We have to…we gotta do it.”<br /><br />How prophetic. “We gotta do it.”<br /><br />With energy costs chomping into Americans’ wallets and pocketbooks, we have to find ways to become energy efficient, and the use of compact fluorescent light bulbs is an easy and painless way to begin.<br /><br />Lighting accounts for 9 percent of the average home’s electric bill according to the Energy Information Administration.*<br /><br />CFLs use up to 75 percent less energy than incandescent bulbs and last up to ten times longer. By using CFLs you could see short-term and long-term energy savings. CFLs were introduced in the 1970s, and for any of you jilted pioneers who tried them in the early years, let me say they have come a long way. Older attempts lacked consistency. They flickered and buzzed. Some had a green hue. Over the next twenty years, technological improvements fixed most of those problems, and the advent of electronic ballasts remedied the performance inconsistencies.<br /><br />Unlike incandescent bulbs that use a filament, CFLs give off light when a mixture of three phosphors are exposed to ultraviolet light from mercury atoms. Though we call them "lights," traditional incandescent bulbs are actually small heaters where 90% of the energy goes into heating the wire, which produce a little light and a lot of heat. You know this if you've touched one that's been on for a while.<br /><br />Primarily, CFLs outperform regular incandescent bulbs in three ways. One, they use less energy. Two, they have a much longer life. Three, they produce less heat, which helps keeping cooling costs down in the summer.<br /><br />With soaring energy costs, the demand for CFLs is well on the way. The shelf space in the aisle where I met that couple a year ago has tripled in size with more bulbs and more styles such as decorative, globe, spiral, outdoor, and reflector to meet the consumers’ needs. There are some things you should know before you begin replacing your incandescent light bulbs with CFLs: • Start with one bulb.<br /><br />There are lots of choices, so before switching all the bulbs in a room, try just one to make sure it gives the kind of light you want. Look for bulbs with a color temperature between 2650 and 2850 degrees Kelvin or labeled "warm white."<br /><br />• CF bulbs cost more than incandescent types. Depending on type, bulbs costs could run between three to 16 dollars per bulb, but the upfront costs are recovered in the reduced energy usage and the long life of the bulb. Prices are dropping.<br /><br />• CF bulbs use about one-quarter of the energy of an incandescent bulb to produce the same amount of light. To replace a traditional 60-watt bulb, look for a 15-watt CF bulb. The measure of light output, known as lumens, should also be considered when replacing a bulb. In other words, if you want your same amount of existing lighting, you should compare the CF bulb’s lumens with the one you are replacing.<br /><br />• The start-up time of a CF bulb can be slower than an incandescent bulb, even though the color and brightness are similar. I have found that light fixtures with two bulbs such a ceiling lights or typical dual lights around a bathroom mirror have a delay when switched on, or one light comes on a split second after the first. Also, reflector lights (mini spot lights) in recessed fixtures start very dim and take a few seconds to reach full lighting. A new “instant on” spiral type CFL is now available and probably will set the standard for future development in other styles of lights.<br /><br />• CF bulbs produce light that's more diffuse than incandescent bulbs, so they are very good for area lighting.<br /><br />• To maximize the lifetime of a CF bulb, install it where it will stay on for a minimum of 15 minutes at a time or several hours per day. The more a CF bulb is turned on and off, the quicker it burns out, however, newer designs are eliminating the issue.<br /><br />• Only use CF bulbs in timers or photocells that are specifically designed to be used in these devices (check the label).<br /><br />• If a light fixture is connected to a dimmer, use a CFL that is specifically designed to work in such applications.<br /><br />• It is not recommended that you use CFLs in a recessed ceiling fixture unless they are designed for that purpose. Because these fixtures don't have any airflow, the additional heat generated by the bulb affects the bulb’s electronics, and the life of the average CFL is shortened. However, there are CFLs specifically made for recessed ceilings fixtures and track lighting.<br /><br />• As with recessed ceiling fixtures, enclosed fixtures have the same issue with heat buildup. Nevertheless, suppose the CFL is put in an enclosed fixture and it lasts only half the rated life of 10,000 hours, or 5,000 hours. At a conservative estimate of 2,000 hours of usage a year, the CFL would last 2.5 years. Using incandescent light bulbs for the same 5,000 hours, you’d have to change the bulbs at least 5 to 8 times. If the location is difficult to reach, it may be worth the shorter life. By using a CFL, even with a reduced life, that’s 5-8 times someone didn’t have to get on a nearby chair or pull out a ladder to change out blown light bulbs. Generally, the heat buildup issue does not apply to outdoor fixtures. The cooler outdoor conditions at night reduce the heat impact.<br /><br />• Though rare, if your CF bulbs cause interference with devices such as radios and computers, move the lamp or the electronic devices away from each other.<br /><br />• When purchasing a CF bulb for a lamp make sure the bulb fits within the lamp shade harp. That problem is disappearing as manufacturers produce smaller and more functional lights, but 3-way lights are still large.<br /><br />• If your lamp has a clamp shade (which attaches to the bulb rather than the lamp), use the traditional, A-shaped bulb instead of the spiral type.<br /><br />Don’t dismay if the previous information seems overwhelming. In most cases, the information written on the bulbs’ packaging does a fairly good job in helping consumers decide on which bulbs best suits their need, but there are a couple of things to be considered.<br /><br />Manufacturers use “wattage replacement” to help guide consumers in replacing incandescent bulbs. The system works pretty well, but remember, light output is measured in lumens, which usually is stated on the package.<br /><br />On your first purchase it is may be best to try the next wattage up from the one that you are replacing. Let’s say you want to replace a 60 watt light bulb. You can try a 75 watt equivalent CFL to see if the extra output of light meets your need. If it does not work out, find someplace else in the house where it could work.<br /><br />The energy savings are also printed on the package. For example, one package states, "Saves $43.00 in energy costs**.” It is much like gas mileage on a car. There are a lot of factors in play when computing miles per gallon as there is in energy savings. Basically you could save more; you could save less, but whatever the case, you will save substantially over incandescent bulbs.<br /><br />Furthermore, notice in the same statement, "Saves $43.00 in energy costs**.” ends with the two asterisks (**). On some packaging, the information that the asterisks reference is inside the package, and cannot be read it until you actually buy the light and removed it from the package. On other packages, the asterisks lead to some very small print that will state something like, “** Saves up to $43.00 in energy costs over the average rated life (6,000 hours) of lamp compared to a (1200 hours) incandescent bulb. Based on 10¢/kWh.”<br /><br />The “based on 10¢/kWh” (Kilowatt hours) can be deceiving. I found other bulb packages that use 12¢/kWh in coming up with the savings amount.<br /><br />To get a truer picture on savings, try the online calculator at Energy Star® to help you estimate your savings at <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=cfls.pr_cfls">http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=cfls.pr_cfls</a>. Look under the heading “resources” and go to “savings calculator.” Just follow the directions on the calculator, and use the electricity rate ($/kWh) from your last electric bill.<br /><br />Finally, when purchasing CF bulbs look for the blue, Energy Star® logo on the package. Such bulbs have qualified for the rigorous standards on the quality and life of the bulb set by the government’s environmental and energy program. Besides the personal benefit of saving money on your household energy, there is the bigger picture of the positive environmental impact made by the use of CFLs, and it is impressive.<br /><br />If every home in the U.S. replaced just one incandescent light bulb with a CFL, in one year it would save enough energy to light more than 3 million homes and prevent greenhouse gas emissions equivalent to those of more than 800,000 cars, and save more than $800 million on our national energy bill.<br /><br />Such numbers make it easy to see that as individuals we can move towards a cleaner environment and energy independence by making small steps like changing a light bulb.<br /><br />However, a downside of Compact Fluorescent Light Bulbs needs to be addressed by consumers, manufacturers and governing agencies. CFLs contain a small amount of mercury for them to work, which is now between 2.5 mg to 5 mg per bulb. The amount of mercury in a bulb barely covers the head of a ballpoint pen. Put into perspective, old mercury fever thermometers have 100 times more mercury than a CF bulb, and the battery that is running the watch on your wrist contains about 25 mg of mercury. Nevertheless, how we handle millions upon millions broken and burned out bulbs, now and into the future, is going to be extremely important.<br /><br />Bulbs are entirely safe as the mercury is sealed within the light. Basically a broken or spent bulb has to be handled like any other helpful but hazardous household product. All you need to do is check under your kitchen sink to see that we all too often take for granted what we have in our homes and how we should handle such products.<br /><br />Not to downplay the mercury in a CFL bulb, but as a pollutant, most mercury comes from the emissions of coal-burning power plants. Mercury which exists in coal is released when burned and emitted into the air. Roughly, 40 percent of mercury emissions in the U.S. are a result of coal-burning plants.<br /><br />In comparison, the average existing coal-fired power plant emits 13.6 milligrams of mercury to power a typical incandescent bulb, but only 3.3 milligrams for a CFL. The reduction in mercury emissions achieved by burning less coal exceeds the five milligrams of mercury inside a CFL.<br /><br />Unlike coal-fired power plants, which emit mercury directly into the atmosphere (where it most affects our health); the mercury in CFLs can be contained as long as you dispose of them properly. (All fluorescent bulbs are considered hazardous waste and should be handled according to local regulations.)<br /><br />For instructions on cleaning up a broken bulb and recycling, check out the EPA site, <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/ia/products/lighting/cfls/downloads/CFL_Cleanup_and_Disposal.pdf">http://www.energystar.gov/ia/products/lighting/cfls/downloads/CFL_Cleanup_and_Disposal.pdf</a>, which continually reviews its clean-up and disposal recommendations for CFLs.<br /><br />Recycling is an issue as the bulbs are relatively new and many communities have yet to form their own policies. Interesting enough IKEA, the home furnishing chain, accepts bulbs for recycling. Sylvania, the bulb manufacturer, has a storage box and mailer that holds 15 bulbs with postage prepaid. It is available on their website for $15. **<br /><br />If you have any concerns on disposal, there are some sites with recycling opportunities listed. The sites can be found in the, “What should I do with a CFL it burns out?” section in the adjoining article. Additionally, you can contact your local waste management organization and landfill.<br /><br />The mercury issue should not discourage you from moving into CFLs. Eventually, you will have to use them either because of government regulations, Australia and Canada are phasing out incandescents; or the marketplace, the bulb manufacturer, Philips, is no longer selling incandescent bulbs in the United States. Though General Electric Co. says it is working on doubling the energy efficiency of incandescent lights and will eventually develop versions comparable with CFLs. The bulbs, which the company hopes to begin marketing in 2010, will cost less than fluorescents, but they won't last as long.<br /><br />The world is changing. To be clear, CFLs are a better choice, since the inefficiency of incandescent light bulbs cause far greater environmental damage because of the increased emissions from coal-burning power plants used to energize the incandescent bulbs.<br /><br />Whether to save money on our electric bills or saving the environment, Compact Fluorescent Light bulbs are generally the best option for lighting our homes.<br /><br />As the man said, “We gotta do it.”<br /><br /><em>* The amount of electricity consumed by the average U.S. households and amount of electricity used for residential U.S. is confusing on the following site, </em><a href="http://tonto.eia.doe.gov/ask/electricity_faqs.asp#electricity_use_home"><em>http://tonto.eia.doe.gov/ask/electricity_faqs.asp#electricity_use_home</em></a><em>, and actually other sites have numbers that vary greatly. I use 9%, though I think it could be more. Here is another site for more conversation on the subject. </em><a href="http://www.grist.org/article/dim-bulb"><em>http://www.grist.org/article/dim-bulb</em></a><em>.</em><br /><br /><em>** Since this writing, Home Depot is now a recycling site.</em>Don Woodringhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13208016718193525529noreply@blogger.com0